90 Degrees

Ok, so lets take it back to Paris.  It is a amazing city, with beautiful, affectionate and passionate people.  But I didn't feel it was the place for a broke English musician.  It has many rich kids with expensive tastes and I didn't feel I fully belonged there.  I awoke at dawn to catch my ride to Amsterdam.........

The girl I met who said she would give me a ride with her boyfriend, loved the Beatles, Dylan and a lot of the same music as me.  Also, her boyfriend was Australian, so we spoke Gods language of English the whole way there, while listening to goood music.  It was beautifully clear and sunny the whole journey there.  I remember the same journey from Paris to Amsterdam last year, and it was rainy and grey all the way there, then once we got to Amsterdam this clear blue patch was above the whole city, and the sunlight shone on the city I immediately fell in love with.  With the music blasting in our little car we talked about music, life and the magic of Amsterdam.  There was meant to be another guy travelling with us, but he couldnt make it at the last minute, and this was very lucky for me, as there would not have been room for all my stuff otherwise. We just about managed to squeaze the suitcase in, and I had Martha on my knees.  Cato, who I met at the Magneet and went on to record a brilliant album with in Liverpool said I could stay with her for a few days, I didn't write the address down though, and just thought I would remember it. Something I later regretted.

I was dropped off in the South of Amsterdam and bunked the tram to the centrum.  I remember it was tram line 9, but no idea what stop or anything.  I got to the centre and smoked a cigarette.  I know I talk about it alot, but it is a lot of stuff I have to carry, that is awkward, you cant fit into a shop, you cant go the toilet.  I was carrying my body weight in the bags.  I got on the tram on line number 9, and the woman asked me which stop I wanted, I said I didn't know and I was just gonna get off when it feels right.  She smiled and said OK.  Each stop we approached, she would say 'this one?' and I would say Hmmm No.  I was starting to feel like I really should get off.  I couldnt recognise anything around me, and felt I might have gone a bit far.  I got off the tram and looked around.  Since I decided to go travelling, I have felt incredibly lucky, things just seemed to work out perfectly, whenever I was lost, I would find where I needed to go.  I was praying that my luck would see me through here and take me to Cato's.  I walked for about 15 minutes and came accross a street that felt really familiar.  I was 60 percent sure it was here.  I walked straight up to the door and couldn't see Cato's name on any of the buzzers.  Damn it felt so right it was here!  If I had of turned my head 90 degrees and looked behind me, I would have seen her window!  I didn't turn round, instead I went back the way I came and walked for 2 hours up the street, every 5-10 minutes I would have to stop, as I just couldn't walk with all this stuff!  I went into a coffee shop in the hope they had internet or a phone, but no.  Then this French lad who overheard me talking to the woman said 'Hey, you need to make a call?' I thanked him from the bottom of my heart with a CD and phoned Cato.  She gave me directions to meet her, and I set off there again.  When I met her at exactly the same place I arrived at previously, I couldnt believe it!  I laughed at lucks irony and went inside her place.

The first time I came to Amsterdam, I was very alone.  For the first 2 weeks I didn't know anyone, but just fell in love with the city.  I would ride round for hours getting lost and smiling to myself at it's beauty and wonder, it's peacefulness.  It was only when I joined the Magneet festival that I really met people who I would be spending time with, and learning more about Dutch culture.  I remember those first 2 weeks well, I was very alone, and in love with the city.  This time, coming straight into the home of Cato and her family and with a big list of people to catch up with from the festival I didn't feel alone, and had a very different feeling about the city.  This time I felt I knew her a bit better after 2 months here last year. Now, the attitude and lives of the Dutch people is what I fell in love with.  Cato has these 2 very wonderful children, who have a sparkle in their eyes, no television and a loving creative home to nurture them to the greatness and success I feel sure they will both achieve in their lives.  Her partner is a chess master, who studies the game and plays constantly.  I love a game of chess, but this is a completely different level!  I have always believed chess is an excercise for the mind, about thinking ahead and thinking strategically.  It is good for you.  Chiel is a very tall, sharp and patient man with bright eyes and a deep love for being a father.  Cato, is a musical genius.  Improvising constantly in her music, her language, her melodies.  I had the pleasure of recording an album with her, and when you see such exceptionally natural brilliance, and a voice that sings in tones of such purity, it is always inspiring to watch, and even more so to be a part of.  There is a piano in their house, musical instruments everywhere, pens and paper with pictures the kids have drawn up everywhere.  Creativity is there, but not enforced.  I think that makes such a difference, let a child find what they want to do creatively or musically, not tell them or make them take lessons.  Let them find their own love for creating.  And this house is perfect for that.  Isaak the boy, looks just like his dad.  A shaggy head of blonde hair and care free eyes.  Sophie looks just like her mum, sharp, bright searching eyes and a creative spark that you know will never be satisfied.  There was this moment, while I was playing guitar in the back room, and Isaak was sitting on Geels knee while he was figuring out a chess problem, the light from the windows shone in their eyes and this image will always stay with me.  It was like one of those perfect picture moments, a proud father with his son, looking so alike except in size.  I have always felt glad that I had never had kids, as I am free from responsibility, but there are times like this one, when you realise how special being a dad is.  In Liverpool I can get pretty tired at watching young angry teen mothers scream at their children and hit them, and speak in that horrid tone.  But being around this family made me very happy inside.  I have happy memories of my childhood, and being around Cato and her family evoked a lot of them.  Always holding and playing with the kids, taking them outside to get muddy from playing and exploring and meeting other kids.  Another beautiful memory is when Cato was practising her pieces for her show, Sanna (Chiel's friend who is also staying there, and another chess master) started singing together.  Sanna has this amazing Baritone voice, and mixed with Cato's which is like one of those voices you hear in black and white, very pure.  They sung Go Down Moses together and I just closed my eyes and listened.....

After putting all my stuff down in her place, I enjoyed a beer with everyone but was already gurning to take a bike out.  I felt like after walking for those hours it would feel like I was stretching my legs,  And it was!  God, I love to ride a bike in Amsterdam.  A joint and a bike ride is a truly amazing experience!  I borrowed Chiel's bike and went straght to my old spots, Rembrandt plain, my (now ex) local coffee shop and my beloved bridge.  I parked my fiet and walked around, I came accross a busker with a double bass singing some old rock n roll.  I had just had a joint so threw him a Euro and stood and listened.  Then, more people started to stand round, and then this woman who was with her boyfriend I seen just started edging as close as she could to the busker with that 'take a pic for facebook smile' I laughed and felt glad I didn't have no camera.  It was getting late so I needed to get back home....But spending this first night back in Amsterdam made me realise how much I love her.  It's where the party is man.  It's where you can buy nice weed, it's where the legends are, it's where you can get anywhere in the city on your bike, it's where buskers play in peaceful bliss to stoned passer by's.  It's where the beautiful girls are, fiesty tall Dutch girls with long strong legs, it's where the houses like matchstick boxes are.  It felt good to be back.  Amsterdam is not a capital city that imposes on you in any way.  From it's laws, to it's transport, to it's people, to it's buildings.  I have never felt scared once in Amsterdam even through all my crazy experiences here.  I feel safe here, and will be here for the next five months at least.

I was hoping to get my first week down in this chapter, but only managed my first night!  See what I mean when I say so much has happened.  You still need to hear the story of Rusty Springwheel and my friends the ducks! And the break up of the midget and the cowboy! Plus my LEGENDARY week with Ron and Elaine.  So much to tell, and so much time to tell it!